Restaurant Opening: Marshall

Next to Brooklyn Bagel, Marshall has popped up with all the vigor that white-on-white signage can muster. Exterior aside, this Balkan restaurant promises to carve out a unique niche on Astoria's already crowded ethic avenue at Broadway and 35th. Inside, diners will enjoy a trip to spots like Belgrade, Sarajevo and Dubrovnic before chowing down in the sleek and cozy shotgun space designed to make you forget that drinking before noon is best reserved for the weekend.

Pomme Cafe: Hearts of Pomme

After three visits, it's clear that Pomme Cafe believes Astorians deserve better than a half-hearted attempt at French bistro fare. From dessert to decor they're determined to show locals le difference between mediocre and mouth-watering.

The interior is an ode to upscale French dining without the pretension: wood panels line the main dining room while a pleasant, if inauthentic, mix of bric-a-brac graces the walls. A genuine warmth permeates the upstairs dining room while the bottom level boasts a lounge area that heats up at night. The first dish, a Housemade Country Pate, was an exercise in luscious decadence with a texture that bordered on velvet. Its flavor profile was complex without being overwhelming, making the dish an ideal appetizer.

Juicy and succulent, the Shredded Lamb Sandwich will prove a formidable adversary for anyone hoping to escape without au jus dripping from their fingers. Chalk it up to our personal lack of restraint but it's hard to contain yourself when faced with heaven on a bun. Finally, the classic French dessert, Tartes aux Pommes, arrived as a warm hockey puck of artfully splayed apple slices beside a heaping mound of ice cream. The tart's supple flakiness paid homage to the cuisine's legendary baking sensibilities while the fruit itself took on a wonderfully buttery flavor, a sweet and savory complement. With truly thoughtful service and a classic, comprehensive menu, Pomme Cafe has succeeded in teaching Astorians that the French have earned their place in the lexicon of local food language.

INFO:

Pomme Cafe

3719 Broadway Ave
Astoria, NY 11103

(718) 545-4301

www.pommecafeny.com

La Vuelta: Learn Spanish in Three Bites or Less

Of the countless lessons that online dating has taught New Yorkers, the long-held truth that unassuming exteriors can hold great potential applies doubly to the dining scene. We suspect this contradiction has saved La Vuelta from obscurity on 44th Drive in Long Island City. Amid the shotgun space encased in wood, there lies some truly delectable dishes that evoke a nuanced sense of Latin cuisine.

Beginning with the Tamarind Glazed Chorizo may be the decision you make all day. The seasoned meat stops just short of sinus-clearing to deliver a spicy punch. The portions are generous but won't stop you from enjoying the Grilled Adobe Spiced Pork Chop. Accompanied by Citrus Chipotle sauce and rice, this entree brings an uncommon earthiness to a traditional dish while the acidic notes of orange keep the pork from getting bogged down in a single flavor. Lastly, the Morros y Christianos (Cuban black beans and rice) rounds out La Vuelta's comprehensive Latin repertoire. The absence of Tres Leches cake from the menu is painfully apparent but the warm bread pudding just about fills the void. A convenient lunch spot and unexpectedly delicious dinner option, La Vuelta promises a memorable meal off the beaten path.

INFO:

La Vuelta

1043 44th Drive

(718) 361-1858

Lounge 47: Nostalgic for the Era of Jello Molds and Other Abominations

Lounge 47, with its vinyl booths and 1970's detritus, is an oddly thrown together nostalgia trip down Vernon Boulevard. Unfortunately, the restaurant seems to have never bothered updating its menu from the era. The result is a solidly mediocre dining experience that makes you yearn for the days of frank and beans under the watchful eye of Welcome Back Kotter reruns.

The chicken burger is filled with Swiss cheese and arrives with a half-hearted smile from the waitress. Warned that the sandwich filling is hot, you wait. After three regular check ins at 7 minute intervals, you discover that the scorching hot magma center of Swiss has only cooled to nuclear reactor levels while the surrounding meat has plummeted the temperature of a hockey puck. The salad arrives fresh and plentiful but is (very) cold comfort. As a consolation, there is a quaint patio out back where folks can drink away their misguided dining choices.

Next to Long Island City's other eateries, Lounge 47 is a weak entry into the edible gauntlet that runs down this Queens thoroughfare. The service is lackluster, if not openly reluctant, and the higher-end prices are unwarranted. Coupled with the fact that the menu suffers from a creativity vacuum, Lounge 47 reveals itself to be a bad idea poorly executed.

INFO:

Lounge 47

4710 Vernon Blvd.

(718) 937-2044

Restaurant Opening: El Ay Si

LIC gets another easily mispronounced restaurant on the Vernon strip: El Ay Si. They are offering tastings on Wednesday October 21st, Friday October 23rd, and Saturday October 24th. Chef Christopher Frakes will be putting together a selection of his favorite comfort foods for you to enjoy. BYOB, RSVP and seating is limited. They bill themselves as serving comfort food so anyone in need of a little TLC should be pleased...