Aegean Cove: The New Crack

There are some things that, when put together, seem to violate the natural order of things. Condominiums in Coney Island, alternate side parking rules, and bodegas that don't sell beer (they exist). Ok, so much of New York City is an anomaly of all things logical but there's one thing that makes perfect sense: the tide of Greek immigrants that produced Astoria's Aegean Cove. The owner, a jovial planet of a man, has a heavy molasses-like accent and a sense of hospitality he lays on just as thick. The service is impeccable and caters to a growing crowd of regulars. Most importantly, Aegean Cove's menu is a stroll through the Greek Isles, aromas and all.

Start with the zucchini croquettes: a tad on the oily side, they're infused with cheese and sauteed to a crisp golden brown. The pita that comes with meal is much more than a perfunctory afterthought for a restaurant that prides itself on well-crafted riffs of traditional Greek fare. In short, you would do well to keep your stomach in check while perusing the appetizers or you'll risk missing out on some of the borough's best dishes.

Diners are constantly struck by the attention to detail that Aegean Cove invests in its menu selection. The Moussaka is hearty, tasty and appears to have as many layers as the Grand Canyon. Some not-to-be-missed dishes include the Dolmades with its luscious stuffed cabbage, rice, meat and fresh herbs in an egg lemon sauce. The Soutzoukakia is a collection of meatballs that delivers fantastic leek-flavored ground beef. The braised lamb, Youvesti, is prepared with a craftsman's touch and will satisfy even the most fickle carnivore. Finally, all that can be said about the yogurt, honey and nuts ensemble that arrives at the end of the meal is that it proves the existence of God. Or maybe just a phenomenal chef. Semantics!

INFO:
Aegean Cove
20-01 Steinway St.
718. 274.9800
Official Website