Mojave: An Oasis in Astoria

There are three little words that should never be thrown around lightly and without regard for the profound meaning they impart. You see so many people, mouths full and minds reeling, proclaim it, but this time, it's true. I say without hesitation or fear of rejection: "Best Enchiladas Ever." That was harder than I thought.

Astoria's Southwestern restaurant, Mojave, is a lesson in fantastically-prepared and well-paired dishes in a setting that has no business being under the rattle of the N/W. If you have the good fortune to amble into Mojave around 3:45 on a weekend, you'll be handed a delicious-looking but abbreviated brunch menu. Hold out for fifteen minutes and wait for the dinner menu, which is long enough to rival a Sunday Times. It's the best move you'll make all week. Mojave's selection is as extensive as it is creative and includes such comfort foods as chicken chili corn chowder and plenty of queso. Upscale and inviting, the restaurant offers well-executed tweaks on the traditional Southwestern meal.

As I mentioned earlier, chips are foreshadowing for the meal to come and this place doesn't disappoint. With delicate blue corn chips and two light salsas, the appetizer sets the bar high and continues to impress. The Blue Corn Enchiladas are worth the slightly expensive price tag. They fill the plate with a tangy mole and will cease all conversation at the table for at least ten minutes. The interior of Mojave is impeccably done and manages to come off as Southwestern-inspired with none of the Americanized kitsch that's crept its way into the motif. The attention to detail, outdoor garden and fantastic fare make this restaurant a must-go, especially for the free margarita on Thursday nights.

INFO:
Mojave
(718) 545-4100

22-36 31st Street
website for Agave (sister restaurant) has info on Mojave