There's been much talk about Tequila Sunrise as of late. Maybe it's because the exterior's got the Liberace-doing-Mariachi thing going for it. Maybe it's because the endless construction has now become just another reluctant part of the ambiance like Kaufman's sticky-as-taffy floors. Whatever, the reason, Tequila Sunrise is a serious contender for best Mexican joint in Astoria. People say you can tell a lot about a person by the shoes they wear. These people shop at Florsheim and are not to be trusted. But what is true is that you can tell a lot about a Mexican restaurant by its chips. Glorious, glorious chips. Think of it as the initial handshake to customers, is it limp and greasy? Or is it crisp and hearty? Tastebuds never forget first impressions and at Tequila Sunrise they won't want to. The only problem arises when the 20 minutes it takes for your entrees to reach the table is far outweighed by your stomach's capacity for chips and guac. Restraint is a virtue at this place. I prefer the sit-on-your-hands technique.
Once your hands are numb, you have the Mole to look forward to. With a rich, delectable flavor, it's a dish worthy of comparison to Alma, a Brooklyn staple on the Columbia Street Waterfront. The interplay of spices is a multi-layered exercise in heat and sweet. The quesadillas, admittedly a hard one to spoil, are delicious and large enough to feed your cat the next time you leave town. For a week. In fact, the majority of the portions are generous and the wait staff is equally helpful. In terms of aesthetics, as shoddy as the exterior appears, the restaurant's dining room was clearly a labor of love. The chairs are exquisitely carved wooden marvels and the atmosphere is surprisingly relaxed for being a taco's throw away from Northern Boulevard.
INFO:
Tequila Sunrise
(718) 729-3301
4001 Northern Blvd.
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