Mezzo Mezzo: If You Can't Dip It or Spread It, Forget It

If the Greeks were a people accustomed to frigid temperatures, Mezzo Mezzo would be their ski lodge. Gargantuan swaths of dark wood abound in the Ditmars restaurant as light floods in from the floor to ceiling windows. Mezzo Mezzo's food, though not quite as impressive as its surroundings, can still be tasty nonetheless. Starting with a traditional mezze plate, it's hard not to notice the variety of hearty spreads and their ability to feed Michael Phelps for a week. Before filling up on appetizers, the salads are worth a look. Their size (large) and price (even larger) mean that, unless a friend helps you out, one salad will probably be the conclusion of your meal. This would be a shame as the saganaki is a delicious artery-clogger.

Unfortunately, the spanikopita is comprised more of phyllo-trapped air than spinach and cheese. The monster size dish appears to deflate the moment you raise a knife to its flaky shell and fails to impress even once your fork has delved into the morass. In terms of entrees, the Aegean Chicken is a tasty oven-kissed dish of eggplant, meat, feta, mozzarella, and marinara with rice. It's flavors mingle nicely during the slow-cooked preparation and you'll want to savor the memory as many of the other menu items are rather underwhelming. The Kota Souvlaki (chicken skewers) and roasted lamb certainly don't offend, but leave much to be desired.

Unfortunately, the wait staff likes to play hookie with the line cooks for twenty minutes before actually serving patrons. While they're quite pleasant once you've sent a carrier pigeon to place your order, the lack of attentiveness puts a real damper on the experience at Mezzo Mezzo. The prices are generally high while the food is hit or miss and it's clear that Mezzo Mezzo's strength lies in its spreadable appetizers and rustic atmosphere. In the final analysis, which should include a serving of their admittedly good baklava, Astoria is home to other Greek joints whose grub is equally good for less green.

INFO:
Mezzo Mezzo
31-29 Ditmars Blvd., near 33rd St.
(718) 278-0444