Trattoria L'incontro: Italian Fare, 007 Style

For as hard as Secret Service agents try to blend in, their coiled-up earpieces always dangle conspicuously from their lobes like faintly flesh colored tentacles. And so it is with the wait staff at 31st Street's Trattoria L'incontro: they're mic'ed up, at attention, and ready to serve- if not their country then at least their dining patrons.

The hallmark of a Trattoria L'incontro meal is the amount of time your table will spend arguing over every possible course combination as the exceedingly patient server humors even the most star-struck eaters. The specials are truly staggering, in both breadth and caliber, while the process of ordering is distilled down to an art. More aptly identified as tour guides, the waiters walk you through the intricacies of each dish with a flair for the dramatic that drives home the axiom that all waiters are just one big break away from acting stardom. The Fillete di Branzino elicits cries of superlative praise and will be picked clean in a matter of seconds. Small children should be held at bay lest they lose a digit. The gnocchi specials will make your heart race, especially with preparations like Rabbit Ragu. Be warned, however, that the gnocchi may be best eaten communally as its richness can rapidly spiral into a heavy stomach not primed for the main course(s). Another pasta dish that can't go without mention is the Mezza Luna: ravioli filled with pesto and marscapone cheese and suspended in a brandy, walnut, and asparagus sauce. Try not to lick the screen.

The Carne d'Agnello is a delectable lamb rack that arrives spice-rubbed and impossibly aromatic. For more meat, the Vitello al Limone is a veal dish infused with lemons and capers that won't have you wondering what other specials you could have had. Before you forget the other staple of Italian dining, the wine selection is quite extensive while the restaurant takes great care to imbue its interior with a seductive coziness that will ensure your meal lasts longer than a filibuster. Trattoria L'incontro tends to fill up quickly and there are often clusters of waiting parties littering the sidewalk trying not to drool on their shirts. Good luck and bring a bib!

INFO:
Trattoria L'incontro
2176 31st St.
(718) 721-3532
Official Website