Tuesday, October 7, 2008

Zenon Taverna: Greek for "Inconsistent"

With a Bible-length menu, Zenon Taverna has volumes of dinner choices for Greek food enthusiasts and a separate, multi-paged menu devoted to daily specials. Starting off, you're confronted with an Everest-sized bread basket in what seems like a personal challenge from the chef. The pita is worth filling up on but the olive bread should be avoided- unless, of course, you order the Avgolemono. In that case, you'll need a continent-sized slab just to soak up the overpowering lemon concentrate in what should be a subtle soup that shares flavors between chicken, rice, egg and fresh lemon juice with none monopolizing your taste buds.

Recovery is on the way, however. The lamb meatballs are juicy and tender while the spices still let the meat's sweet fattiness shine through. Another flavorful variation, the Keftedes (Cyprus Meatball) are a tasty option for diners who ask only two things of their meat: that it be pork and fried. It's served with shredded potatoes and combines notes of mint, parsley, and onion to round out the taste. Both dishes are recommended in conjunction with the tzitiki, which is smooth-tasting with enough cucumber chunks to make it an appetizer and a half.

The interior is a curious mixture of stucco-walled Old World Charm and not-quite modern murals. Regardless, the owners did an admirable job with an admittedly awkward shotgun space and the restaurant emits a warmth that is sorely missing from much of the avenue. Cash only, Zenon Taverna's prices are slightly higher than some of Astoria's other Greek joints. Ultimately, you're paying for the privilege of taking 25 minutes to peruse the library of menu selections. The service is a bit slow but incredibly friendly with a owner-waiter tag team ready to wish you well as you amble out onto 31st Avenue, loosening your belt by a notch or two along the way. All in all, Zenon Taverna delivers some highlights that are worth revisiting but choosing among its vast variety can seem like Russian roulette. A warning to future gamblers: pick wrong and you may end up with a table full of inconsistent, middle-of-the-road dishes.

INFO:
Zenon Taverna
718-956-0133
34-10 31st Avenue
Official Website

1 comments:

Julia said...

I've taken many visitors to Zenon, who absolutely love everything there...especially the olive bread. I personally think it's delicious. I have also never had a problem with the amount of lemon in their soup. The fact that you enjoyed everything else shows that it's unfair to say that you could "end up with a table full of inconsistent, middle-of-the-road dishes". Not liking a soup that contains too much lemon (and has the word lemon in its name) and their bread (once), shouldn't brand the whole establishment as "inconsistent."