Tuesday, December 23, 2008

Manducatis Rustica: A True Italian Import

Manducatis Rustica's old world charm is two-fold: the Italian food is imbued with a true European sensibility while the surroundings are pure Grandma's house...Sicily, circa 1940's.  With the aromas wafting from a generously open kitchen and a couch ready for sitting, this Long Island City joint is the perfect intersection of time and place for any hungry diner.  

The pizza arrives like it would in most Venetian cafes: large enough for a famished person or just right for two diners more interested in gabbing between bites.  The dough is a nice middle ground between paper thin and chewy-thick.  Manducatis offers an appetizing array of pizza choices and the artichoke, cappicola, olives combination is recommended.  Don't expect an overwhelming wave of flavors as the pie achieves a deliciously subtle taste while still surprising you with bursts of anchovies buried three layers beneath the toppings.  If you don't like surprises, just mention this to the warm and friendly waitstaff while ordering one of the nostalgia-inducing European bottled drinks (Sanpellegrino L'Aranciata and Coke in glass bottles).  Overall, the pies at Manducatis are quite tasty and deserve to be sampled with a glass of wine. 

If you've saved room for dessert, you've done yourself an enormous favor.  The homemade gelato is truly heavenly and the pistachio flavor is an absolute crowd pleaser- even for those normally not inclined.  The dessert case is extensive and contains everything from pies to crumb cakes to cookies and more.  Manducatis clearly takes pride in preparation and it's evident in every bite.  

INFO:
Manducatis Rustica
13-27 Jackson Avenue
Long Island City
(718) 729-4602


Thursday, December 18, 2008

Restaurant Opening: Table 31?

Table 30 was a cafe of only moderate mention and died a mercifully swift death in the past year.  Despite its hopeful beginnings, Table 30 drowned in its own mediocrity and, let's face it, always had an inferiority complex in the face of Akti's sumptuous cuisine.  Until this morning, when the corner of 30th Avenue and 35th St. became home to....another plywood fortress shielding the new interior from curious on-lookers.  It's not yet clear what will become of the new space but Astorians are biting their tongues in anticipation.

In other opening news, Astoria will be home to a new brick oven pizza joint at 42nd Street and 31st Avenue that will hopefully give Sac's on Broadway a run for its not-so-hard-earned money.  Extra anchovies!

Friday, December 12, 2008

El Sol: Peruvian Outpost Is Just So-So

The next time you think to yourself how hard it is to find a reliable, affordable Peruvian restaurant that looks like a quaint bordertown crossing and offers a roaming magician hungry for tips, you'll soon have the answer: El Sol. Almost hiding between two nondescript storefronts, El Sol faces out onto Northern Boulevard, another Latin cuisine contender in a neighborhood brimming with options for tostones and skirt steak.

The sangria is punchy and overwhelmingly sweet, though it serves as a nice rejoinder to the mountains of meat to come. The portions are generous but even the dancing Kool Aid mascot couldn't handle the boatload of sugar used in the sangria. Giant toasted corn kernels open the meal and cry out for a drizzling of the spicy green sauce that comes on the side. The ceviche is tasty with classic lime-driven notes. The roasted chicken, a specialty within the cuisine and the restaurant itself, does not disappoint. The skin arrives less crispy than what diners may be accustomed to but the meat's seasoned flavor is a surefire pleaser. Unexpectedly, the chicken is served with french fries and what appears to be giant comma-shaped morsels of...hot dog?
The prices are just right and the service is more than decent. The crowd is heavily neighborhood-driven, which is to say, brush up on your Spanish. Suffice it to say that between the vegetables, potatoes and the extensive carnivorous wonders, El Sol will leave you full and more curious about hot dogs than you ever cared to be.

INFO:
EL SOL
87-07 Northern Blvd
Jackson Heights
(718) 446-1149

Thursday, December 4, 2008

Sanfords Restaurant: The Second Coming

As rivalries go, it's tough to get any better than Astoria's version of restaurant family feud. There's no animosity here, just a healthy competition to round out the neighborhood's vibrant culinary patchwork. As cousins of the two brothers who helm the ship at Petey's Burger, the owners of Sanfords have rescued Astoria from the drought of delicious brunch spots. Not content to relegate its eclectic menu to the mimosa crowd, Sanfords boasts a 24 open door policy and delivery. The restaurant's history dates back decades but after a much-anticipated makeover, Sanfords revitalizes a strip of Broadway with an injection of new life.

The banana-chocolate-chip pancakes are a stack of edible utopia with chunks of banana well-preserved within the batter- a great brunch choice to share. For a slightly more refined morsel, the mesquite BBQ chicken salad is sprinkled with Roquefort cheese, pine nuts, and grape plus a tangy balsamic over fresh greens, making it a solid option. The meat is wonderfully smoky and adds extra dimension to the meal. The eggs Benedict arrive prepared with care and make for a hearty brunch entree. The mimosas are doled out generously and will incite demands for seconds. As far as after-dinner fare is concerned, the apple pie is among the very best in Astoria and is laced with ribbons of supple caramel. For the more libation-inclined,
Sanfords carries an impressive selection of bottled beers and supplies a comfortable bar perch for its more hurried customers.

Leaving the frenetic masses on Broadway for the comfort of
Sanfords' sleekly appointed dining room is a welcome respite and showcases the soothing decor and seductive aromas. The interior, extensively overhauled after a fire, is a stunning upgrade for the neighborhood and really adds an element of relaxation to the bustling restaurant. With its all-night availability, delectable food and alluring spa-like ambiance, Sanfords has already been welcomed back as an indispensable member of the foodie community.

INFO:
Sanfords Restaurant
30-13 Broadway
(718) 932-9569