Sunday, January 18, 2009

Brick Cafe: Please Refrain From Licking the Plate

If you ever buried a time capsule as a kid, you'll understand the feeling of walking into Brick Cafe on a random Wednesday night: delight at finding a treasure so surprising yet eerily familiar all at once.  Such is the feel of this sweeping Astoria institution that has occupied the corner of 31st Avenue and 33rd Street for over six years.  Under the stewardship of Bosnian owners, Brick Cafe has continued to provide the neighborhood with consistently delicious Italian-influenced fare.  

For starters, they devised a way to make asparagus sinful- a feat in itself.  Begin with the smoked salmon-wrapped asparagus accompanied by ultra-rich marscapone cheese and caviar. You will not regret it.  The octopus carpaccio with fennel is also a Brick Cafe highlight, prepared with an eye for subtle but unmistakably delectable flavor.  Once you've bid a bittersweet farewell to the appetizers, the veal cannelloni in a bechamel sauce is not to be missed.  Aside from the requisite tenderness, the meat is succulent and will have your mouth in a tug of war over the more enticing taste: buttery soft veal or velvety smooth bechamel.  There is no loser in this equation.  

Another incredibly appealing option is the chicken franchaise.  It avoids the twin pitfalls of over-breading and excessive use of lemon zest, both of which should be crimes punishable by a week long stint of Krystal dinners.  Thankfully, Brick Cafe makes the dish taste like a delicate ballet of flavors while rounding out the plate with garlic mashed potatoes and seasoned vegetables.  Brick Cafe also does a bustling brunch business and its dedicated menu is impressively appointed.  The service is truly happy to serve while the decor will lull you into a serene complacency...until you walk out and realize Tuscany is slightly farther than the walk to the subway.  

INFO:
Brick Cafe
(718) 267 - 2735
3095 33rd Street

1 comments:

brainwane said...

Brick is pretty good, but Il Bambino just down the road has more options for vegetarians.