Tuesday, July 14, 2009

Linn: Inauspicious Beginnings

Vintage film buffs and fans of sculptural wall fixtures will feel at home in Linn's whitewashed interior. The ceiling's gently sloping corners evoke origami creations and the set-back bar leaves the dining room's open floor plan undisturbed. With an extensive menu of Japanese fare, Linn has entered the neighborhood culinary fray with many Astorians prematurely proclaiming the restaurant a cut above J.J.'s sushi offerings. Served in traditional Japanese wooden blocks, the fluke is a delicious foray into freshness and flavor. Not to be outdone, the tuna sashimi is quite appetizing with its aubergine hue but disappointingly expensive, ringing up Manhattan prices for outer borough quality.

Beyond price considerations, diners are cautioned against venturing beyond the realm of raw fish. The spicy Japanese beef curry leaves you wondering if they gathered their ingredients from a canned goods charity drive. With three small morsels of tough meat, the "curry" arrives in the form of Campbell's cream of mediocrity soup minus even the most feeble attempt at seasoning.

Linn's cuisine is uneven at best, with higher quality dishes veering into exorbitant prices while the remainder of the menu languishes in a purgatory of blandness. A different spin on the typical sushi restaurant is appreciated (cinema and curved ceilings), but Astoria will have to continue holding its breath for another Japanese rival worthy of J.J's comparisons.


INFO:
Linn
2913 Broadway
(718) 204-0060







1 comments:

brainwane said...

I like Linn, especially the cool make-your-own-tofu and the sushi with pickled plum. The reviewer here is kinda harsh.