La Rioja: You Had Me at Chorizo

It’s not often that hooves peeking out from carefully draped tablecloths signal the start of an uncommonly good meal. It’s also rare that a little pocket of Spain crops up on Broadway between your dry cleaners and the fruit stand. After an evening in La Rioja, nothing will seem strange again and you’ll find yourself skipping home like a chorizo-stuffed fool.

Let’s begin at the end. La Rioja’s back section is dominated by a glowing deli case complete with various boulders of cheese. Do not look directly into the case. The amount of cheese will blind you, leaving you to stumble around all night in a lactose induced stupor. Instead, turn to your left and you’ll witness a beautiful sight in the heart of Astoria: jamon. Regain your breath and act natural. Described as the “Famous Iberico Pig”, you’re looking at the Jamon Iberico De Bellota which is hand sliced and fed with acorns to lend it a distinctive flavor. This is a must have delicacy, though if you’re a bit fiscally challenged at the moment you may consider the Jamon Iberico which is equally famous but four dollars cheaper owing to the lack of acorns. Yes, acorns. Another highlight among the embutidos (dry cured meats) is the Chorizo Tipo Cantimpalo. In the meantime, Queso lovers will rejoice over the Caña De Cabra goat milk and Torta Del Cesar sheep milk cheeses.

The entrees are relatively diverse, hopping from Paella options, to seafood and then back to more carnivorous pursuits. Solomillo De Cerdo, a pork loin in garlic sauce is somewhat tasty though is heavy without delivering much flavor. However, the Piquillos Rellenos De Bonito, sweet red pepper stuffed with white tuna, is a delectable treat with an amazing interplay of textures: velvety smooth meets sweet crunch. For diners with minimal decision making skills and even less willpower, the Bocatas are a great choice with one meat, one cheese and a creative vegetable accent.

The physical space is warm and inviting, though the layout is awkward with a bar on the right and the a la carte enclave in the back. They excel at first rate service and reasonable prices meaning this Latin joint can slide on interior design. The restaurant evokes a sense of indulgence while beckoning stragglers to linger over their plates and wine. From tapas to take out, La Rioja raises the bar on authenticity for Astoria’s diverse restaurant scene.

INFO:

La Rioja

3305 Broadway

718.932.0101