Pomme Cafe: Hearts of Pomme

After three visits, it's clear that Pomme Cafe believes Astorians deserve better than a half-hearted attempt at French bistro fare. From dessert to decor they're determined to show locals le difference between mediocre and mouth-watering.

The interior is an ode to upscale French dining without the pretension: wood panels line the main dining room while a pleasant, if inauthentic, mix of bric-a-brac graces the walls. A genuine warmth permeates the upstairs dining room while the bottom level boasts a lounge area that heats up at night. The first dish, a Housemade Country Pate, was an exercise in luscious decadence with a texture that bordered on velvet. Its flavor profile was complex without being overwhelming, making the dish an ideal appetizer.

Juicy and succulent, the Shredded Lamb Sandwich will prove a formidable adversary for anyone hoping to escape without au jus dripping from their fingers. Chalk it up to our personal lack of restraint but it's hard to contain yourself when faced with heaven on a bun. Finally, the classic French dessert, Tartes aux Pommes, arrived as a warm hockey puck of artfully splayed apple slices beside a heaping mound of ice cream. The tart's supple flakiness paid homage to the cuisine's legendary baking sensibilities while the fruit itself took on a wonderfully buttery flavor, a sweet and savory complement. With truly thoughtful service and a classic, comprehensive menu, Pomme Cafe has succeeded in teaching Astorians that the French have earned their place in the lexicon of local food language.

INFO:

Pomme Cafe

3719 Broadway Ave
Astoria, NY 11103

(718) 545-4301

www.pommecafeny.com